Battery Safety: Identifying Your Battery

In this article, your will learn about your e-cig battery spec, manufacturing process and also how to care for it.


Batteries come in all shapes and sizes. You can head on over to Wikipedia and see for yourself all the different battery sizes that are available to consumers. What we deal with in electronic cigarettes are what we call “lithium-ion rechargeable” batteries. They are numbered by their size. (example: 18650 is 18mm in diameter and 65mm in height, the 0 stands for cylindrical) The battery you choose depends on your mod, whether it is a mechanical (mech) mod or a regulated device (APV) and the size it will accept.

The batteries used in electronic cigarettes vary in size from 10440 to 26650. In this blog, we will focus on the 18650 size since it is the most widely used battery.

Notice the “18650” written on the wrapper.

From this picture, we can see some clues as to what size battery we have, “BRC 18560 3000mah.” This is the first step in identifying your battery, and probably the most important. Buying the wrong size battery just won’t work on your device. 🙂


The manufacturer is also a critical subject to consider when purchasing batteries. Most of us have heard of “inflated numbers, ” and in the battery market, we see it a lot of this. Some manufacturers are not as forthcoming as we would like them to be … one example:


To someone that doesn’t know much about batteries, this might look like an awesome buy, but looks can be deceiving since this battery’s true specs are 2600mah. Do you trust this battery now?

Rewrapping is a process when an aftermarket company takes a working cell from the original manufacturer and rewraps the label with their own branding:

Rewrapped LG HE2

This battery is a rewrap of another popular battery that we will look at on this journey. Do we trust companies that rewrap batteries?

That is up to you to decide especially after researching.

There have been a lot of companies that have sprung up overnight with batteries marketed towards vapors (ie: Vamped, SubOhmCell, etc.). These batteries are all rewrapped of popular cells we already use, mostly the LG HE2. Keep in mind that battery factories are expensive operations and they don’t appear overnight and these are mostly gimmicks with inflated numbers!

Pulling the Battery Contact – Troubleshooting Guide

The LED light on the battery’s tip may be lighting up, but the unit is not producing any vapor whatever you vape juice is worst vape juice or best vape juice. On first glance, it may seem the atomizer is faulty because it’s not warming up and vaporizing the liquid. In some cases, it is the culprit, but it may not always be.

Both the battery and the atomizer contain a contact, which is a small metal disc with a hole in the middle for airflow. On occasion and through charging and regular usage, the contacts on one or both of the units may get pushed in. When this happens, the units are unable to make a proper connection. In order for the entire e cigarette to work properly, the battery’s contact must touch the atomizer’s contact when they are screwed together. Otherwise, the battery will be unable to deliver power to the atomizer, which explains why the battery lights up at the tip and the atomizer does not warm up to vaporize the vape juice.

This type of situation can be remedied quickly, and all that needs to be done is lift the contact on the battery. The contact is located at the end of the battery unit where the threads are located, as seen in the photo below: 

Using a pair of crafting tweezers, an X-Acto blade, the tip of a metal nail file, or even your fingernail (I’ve used my pinky), lift the edge of the contact. You may need to twirl the battery as you lift up from several locations. Don’t just pull from one side. In the image below, I’ve used a pair of crafting tweezers to lift up the contact.

You’ll want to lift up the contact enough to where it looks like this:

You’ll notice that the contact is lifted, which will allow it to make a proper connection with the atomizer’s contact.

When you screw the battery and atomizer back together, you may notice some resistance as the contact gets pushed back in. Don’t worry about the contact going back in, as this is normal. The same applies to charging the battery: you’ll notice the contact is being pushed back in when you screw the battery into the charging port.

Assuming that an atomizer is really a functional unit and the method is performed correctly, the units should start to work. If the e-cigarette still fails to produce any vapor, then the atomizer may truly be defective, or there is some other underlying issue that would need to be resolved.


This will be a quick entry into specs. I’ll be explaining what these numbers and information mean in another entry.

When we find a battery on a website that we are looking to buy we will be flooded with information, for example:

A lot of information!

There are a lot of numbers and symbols we might not all understand. Hopefully, this blog will help you understand some of these numbers in an attempt to make your vaping experience a lot safer.

A couple of important information we will be looking at are:
• Capacity
• Max Continuous Discharging Current
• Discharge cut-off voltage
• Resistance
• Battery chemistry: IMR or ICR?
• Pulse ratings

We as vapors that get into devices that require an aftermarket battery from a company HAVE to know what the specifications and limits of our batteries are. You, your family, and the people around you shouldn’t be in danger because you don’t know what you’re doing. These batteries can be dangerous if we are not careful and mindful to their limits.

Thank you and vape safe!

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